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The first question almost everyone asks is what it costs. It is a fair question and a hard one to answer honestly in a single number, because two garages that look identical from the street can need very different work.
What we can do is explain what actually moves the price, so that when you get a quote you can see what you are paying for.
Before you price a new door, check whether you need one
A large share of the people who call us expecting to buy a new door do not need one. Springs, cables, rollers, hinges and openers are wear items. They are meant to be replaced, and replacing them costs a fraction of a new door.
A door is genuinely finished when the sections themselves have gone. Cracked or delaminated panels, a bottom rail rusted through, a door bent past straightening after an impact. Age alone is not a reason. We regularly service doors that are twenty years old and working fine.
So the honest first step is a diagnosis, not a quote.
What drives the price of a new door
Size and how many. A single door is a different job from a double, and two doors are not simply twice one door because much of the labour overlaps.
Insulation. An insulated door costs more than a single skin door. Whether it is worth it depends entirely on the building. On an attached, heated garage it is usually money well spent and you will notice it in the house. On a detached cold shed you will not feel the difference, and we will say so.
Style and material. A plain raised panel steel door sits at one end. Carriage house styles, flush and contemporary panels, decorative hardware, windows and full view aluminium sit progressively further up. This is the single biggest lever most people pull, and it is a taste decision rather than a technical one.
The opening. This is the one nobody expects. Older garages settle, and openings are frequently out of square. If the frame needs work before a door can be hung properly, that is real work and it belongs in the quote rather than appearing as a surprise on the day.
The opener. A new insulated door is heavier than the thin one it replaced. An older opener sometimes copes and sometimes does not, and hanging a heavy door on a marginal opener guarantees a call-out later.
Why we quote after measuring
We measure the opening, the headroom and the side room before ordering anything. An approximate measurement produces a door that arrives and does not fit, which costs everyone more than the visit would have.
That is also why a number off a website is rarely what you end up paying. It is not that the online figure is dishonest. It is that it cannot know about your frame, your headroom or your opener.
Financing
We offer financing through FinanceIt, so a replacement can be spread over monthly payments rather than paid up front. For a lot of people that turns a door replacement from a project that gets postponed into one that gets done.
The short version
Ask for a diagnosis before you ask for a price. If it can be repaired, repair it. If it genuinely needs replacing, get the opening measured properly and pick the insulation level that matches how the building is actually used.
If you want that conversation without any pressure attached, call your nearest branch and tell us what the door is doing.